Posted on 07/28/2014 2:55:00 PM PDT by Biggirl
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we don’t need so stinkin furnaces
76 degrees..........................sigh
Got inspired by you and the temperature to go give the ornamental hedges a haircut.
Everything else seems to be OK. Almost all the 50+ azaleas bloomed, crape myrtles in bloom now, boxwood OK, the big cherry tree bloomed at the beginning and what I thought was a big dogwood I told you about is a tulip magnolia the arborist said and it bloomed very nicely before it got leaves. Didn’t know a variety of magnolia lost its leaves in the winter.
All the hydrangea except the few grew up from the ground. I don’t know dick about them so I went and broke the dead wood out, seemed a lot easier than getting my pruners in there and not cutting the new growth. (that was probably wrong right?) Should I go back and hit the dead wood with the pruners and if so when? The colors that did bloom are white, pink and green!
111.9 °F
!!!!
I don’t care if it’s a “dry heat”, that’s just too darned hot.
Steven A. Smith may be a nice guy but he’s a race baiter almost every time when I’ve heard him on Hannity.
The false information that MSM employees (including talking heads) publish about who is to blame for casualties appears to have been a factor responsible for attacks on Jews around the world.
Seems to me that here in the U.S. such irresponsible MSM acts would subject the MSM employees to the doctrine of vicarious liability. The victims may have only to prove that the attackers were aware of the false information for a successful civil suit.
108.3 here, but it “feels like” 110.0. lol, I feel like I’m in a sauna. But hey, sweating out the toxins is good if the heat don’t do you in first.
he carries his ass in his pocket...always screams and is a blacks first punk
outta here.........see ya’ll in a week.....
Keep cool
Southern magnolias are usually evergreen/ fragrant 'saucer' or Magnolia grandiflora - while northern magnolias are deciduous - Magnolia spp - and not very fragrant. It's a large family (genus) of some 200+ plants, with more being hybridized each year. Whites, pinks, red, yellows, light greens and multi-colors.
There are 2 southern magnoias which are hardy up to Harrisburg: Bracken's Brown Beauty, and Jane, but they usually sustain damage in severe winters. I grew both in the fields.
If the dead hydrangea stalks break off easily at the rootball, that's fine; just so none of the root system is damaged by yanking them out. Clean cuts are always better.
If you can see enough to prune out the rest of the dead wood now, that's good. If the foliage obscures your view, and you might nip off a finger, wait until the leaves drop in the fall. Use your fingernail to scratch the bark along the stem: green underneath is good, don't cut; brown is bad, remove it down to 1".
I always cut deadwood back 1-2" at a time until I hit green, and then stop.
On vertical stems/trunks, always make the cut on a 45°, so any rainwater runs off and doesn't lay on the cut/soak into the vertical wood, and rot out the stem or trunk.
Technically, those forms are calle Topiary, which is defined by tedious/exacting hand pruning into odd or ornamental shapes. It's very laborious, much sought-after and pricey when well- maintained and specimen-sized.
Feed now with Holly-Tone 4-3-4 Fertilizer, for good spring growth.
If you can get some up-close pics of the plants' needles/foliage, I can ID them for you. I used to have a large collection of many Topiary forms raised specifically for some of the large estates who were among my Farm's customers.
I feel like I bought an old Ferrari, fired the mechanic that that kept it running but didn’t really know how to take care of it properly, taking it to the dealership and getting price shock and then deciding to try and do it myself.
Thanks so much for your help! Every little bit helps I assure you.
I love your garden and tre chat...but it truly makes me feel inadequate...bout all I can grow are dandylions and assorted crabgrass ;-)
Suffice to say, I am not a “yardwork” chick...I can fire up the lawn mower and walk a straight line......I’m good to go ;-)
Going to look for the Holly Tone now, I know it’s around here somewhere. Haven’t used it since I killed the Sky Pencil Holly at the old house.
Remember I have the 14’ now maybe 16’ southern magnolia I planted last year to prune so it makes a canopy Japanese/Ornamental style. I will send you pics of that too to see if we need to get started this year.
RE: pruning, the arborist was instant I prune everything during the winter, do you concur?
I’m a plant murderer from way back.
Jap Maples should be pruned in early spring, before leaves; winter pruning can wake-up the tree and get it damaged/killed if it leafs-out in bad weather.
Some evergreens - pinus, doug fir, juniper, boxwoods etc - must be pruned in early spring since they only have 1 set of buds and none in reserve in case all branches are cut back hard, they will die from lack of foliage.
Whatever’s cut back MUST have some foliage left so leaves/needles can feed the plant, and if Holly-Tone’s applied in Sept-Oct, it will be absorbed to help push out new growth from the cut back areas.
Let’s get good pics of the ones you want to cut back, so I can categorize when to cut, and where to make the cuts.
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