Posted on 10/30/2019 9:39:34 PM PDT by lee martell
thnx.
Wasn’t sure...
I looked at this pressure caner. It fits 18, 1 pint cans.
Does it mean they all be covered + 1”, with bit of a room to build the pressure?
Wow...
Thank for the explanation.
It sure sound like it is the way to go.
Go to look into it closer.
No. The pressure canner does not need the jars covered with water.
Only the hot water bath method does.
For the pressure canner, I put in about 2 inches of water in the bottom of the canner and then put the jars on the rack that comes with the canner. he jars, in either method, should NEVER EVER sit right on the bottom of the pot. You want enough water so that the canner does not boil dry because steam does escape during the canning process.
Sometimes with multiple batches, I add water in between to make sure that doesn’t happen.
With the hot water bath method, in order for the heat to get the contents of the jars to temp, they must be submerged.
But the pressure canner uses pressure to raise the temperature. In a closed system, when the pressure goes up, the temperature goes up as well. So at 10 pounds of pressure, the temperature inside the canner get sup to 240F, enough to kill the botulism spores that can survive 212F in non acidic foods.
I have this pressure canner, which can also be used as a pressure cooker.
https://www.allamericancanner.com/All-American-Pressure-Canners.htm
However, a pressure cooker cannot be used to can as it’s a) usually not big enough, and b) does not have the racks for holding the jars.
The pressure canner comes with a very thorough instruction book that gives procedures and time tables for canning different foods.
Some foods, especially dense ones like pumpkin, do not pressure can easily.
And some, like applesauce can froth up and make a mess.
The foods in the jars need to be able to have the heat convect to reach the center, so stuff that allows for some circulation cans well and since applesauce and pumpkin don’t circulate in the jars, they are not good for that.
I know it sounds complicated and it was intimidating at first but now I’ve canned so much by both methods that I have the procedure down cold. I only check the books to confirm the processing time.
And if you decide to go that route, you can always PM me or ask my on a foodie thread, along with some other homesteader type FReepers who like to do things by themselves.
No joke. Find an old projection TV (I see them on the side of the road on accasion as people toss them out with the trash) and remove the screen within. It is called a Fresnel lens. I think such a lens can be bought from Amazon. It can be mounted on a frame and adjusted to focus the Sun's rays and makes a hell of an oven.
Good luck with that. In the two worst cases I remember, those lighters discharged their entire contents in the span of two to three seconds. Both times they were in my pocket and not in use, lol. Lessons learned.
Your experience makes no sense to me.
The laws of physics say that extreme cold should DECREASE the pressure exerted by the butane, not increase it. If you had been in the Mojave desert in extremely HIGH temperature, I would expect the possibility of increased pressure induced leakage, not in extreme cold.
This sounds like a "Challenger O-ring" type seal failure QA problem.
Were both lighters the same brand?? El cheapo checkout line type, or good quality??
Any other FR hunters or outdoor types have a similar issue with butane lighters??
They were different types of lighters. I was a past aerospace fuel systems designer including an “x-files” fuel system. You would think I might know a few things about seals, lol. I would say seal or o-ring failure, probably from a combination of low temperature and poor chemical resistance to Butane. I seriously doubt most lighters have improved much from the mid 80’s. It still would be interesting to look at some of the operating temperature engineering specs for individual lighters. Example: 5 out of 13 rubbers are unacceptable for butane use, including the very best for temperature gradients. https://mykin.com/rubber-chemical-resistance-chart
“The laws of physics say that extreme cold should DECREASE the pressure exerted by the butane, not increase it.”
It is possible that the lighters contents were released due to the contents suffering negative pressure (vacuum) because of the cold.
Yeah, you probably know more about the physical properties of “o” rings with that background. My own extends more to things like wet chorine, wet hydrogen chloride, saturated salt solutions near boiling, and other chemical aspects of seals. I’d say we both know a bit.
I still have a hard time buying that it is a pressure effect unless the seals are a really crappy design, hold well only under pressure, and leak under slight vacuum (not impossible, I know).
I still think that a small “chef’s butane torch” with piezo ignition would be much more reliable, have far better seals, work better in wind, and many other positives. Built to work reliably in a hard work environment and not be a “toss it if it misbehaves” gizmo.
Still my first choice.
I did some scanning around, and it turns out that Zippo sells refillable butane inserts for their lighter cases. I would think that if anyone in the butane lighter business could get a handle on lighter reliability, it would be Zippo.
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