Posted on 07/04/2014 6:52:19 PM PDT by djf
OK, I have a 94 Sentra.
The last four days or so, the brake light and the battery light come on. So I pulled the battery and put the charger to it - nothing!
I went and got a new battery, which took a little bit to put in. The battery WITHOUT the car running has 12.65 volts
Now the first time I started it, almost immediately the battery light came on again, so I quick-like measured it, and it came in with 16 volts. That's high!
So I let it sit for a bit and then start it. While it idles, the battery light stays off. At first, if I give it a slight rev up, the battery light comes back on. Now it seems the light only comes on if I really push the accelerator.
So I am wondering something. If the old battery went total hooters up, then the alternator had to work harder. Does it somehow get "set" at a higher output and take a while to get back to normal?
If not, it's got to be the voltage regulator, which I may be able to get separate. If it just takes a mile or three to reset back to normal output, then I should be ok.
Any experience/ideas are welcome!
BTW, running at idle with the new battery gives about 13.8 volts - totally normal.
Have you checked the fuses and the relays?
Probably bad voltage regulator....
Yup.
Not sure if I got them all, it has some fusible links, etc.
Most regulators are built into the alternator, even in 94. Know that’s the case for Hondas and Toyotas of the same age.
Are you sure the regulator isn’t built into the alternator?
Oh it is built in. I’m just trying to figure out if it even needs it - yet!
Sounds like a bad voltage regulator.
It’s your alternator which has an internal regulator....if it is the original equipment....it’s almost 20 years old
Time for a new one....
Thankfully it’s a Nissan, if it was a Chevy, you already be on your second or third replacement...
Have you tried turning it off and rebooting it?
It behaves as if the alternator was functioning backwards.
You could have high resistance caused by corrosion in one of the battery cables or terminals. This can cause the regulator to crank out too much voltage and light the lamp.
It could also be caused by a bad or weak diode in the Alternator. Any good parts store can check the Alternator and tell you what if anything is at fault.
I would replace the alternator before it kills another battery.
Very likely, it’s a Windows 8 problem. Always is.
Either that, or it’s Bush’s fault.
The battery was from 2006. So it was due...
Two mornings I went out there and it was deader than a doornail.
If you can get the alternator out, most part stores will test it for free.
Have you checked the blinker fluid?
Well, I put it in, so I should be able to get it out. But if it’s gonna get better, then I don’t need to.
I’ll let it sit for the night.
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