Posted on 04/08/2013 9:31:57 AM PDT by hdbc
Yep. Other than the fire control group, for the full auto "happy switch", operationally there is no difference. Direct gas impingement.
My idea on a leaky gas tube would have been if it was short cycling. Same for the springs/buffer tube.
Doesn't sound the case though.
That was my initial thought for the first round. A squib.
No description of the “jams” that came later. Need to know more about what was happening then. Everything else is just speculation.
FTE? FTF? Ironed case heads? Popped primers? Stove piping? Improper seating of magazine causing next round to hit receiver instead of feed ramp? Having to manually cycle between shots?
Needs us some more detail here...
The FNAR is far superior.
I am looking for a good book on the AR platform to give out to people on stripping, etc, the rifle.
Do you have any recommendations? Not a website, looking for one they can keep in a SHTF situation.
OK, as others have indicated, you need to be highly specific about what you mean.
First of all, MPro-7 isn’t a lube. It’s a cleaner, used for removing carbon and plastic fouling. It works especially well in shotguns. If you’re leaving MPro-7 in the chamber (or barrel) and not cleaning it out after you’re done cleaning the rifle, you could be causing your problem right there. If you use MPro-7 for cleaning, you should let it sit in the chamber/bore for oh, about 30 minutes. Then swab out with a couple of dry patches, then follow up with a patch soaked in light oil or penetrating oil, then follow with another dry patch to take out the excess.
Federal ammo has been, for me, some of the most reliable ammo of all in the market. My first suspicion would not be the ammo.
Now, as to the “round getting stuck in the barrel” - what EXACTLY do you mean there? That a bullet was pushed out of the brass and this lodged in the barrel, or that a live round was chambered, failed to fire and then would not extract?
A “hangfire” isn’t what you think it is.
A “hangfire” is when you chamber a round, pull the trigger, the hammer or striker drops, the pin hits the primer... and nothing happens for a few moments, THEN the round goes off.
In a hangfire, the round fires, but the ignition of the powder waits a few moments before the round lights off. They’re very dangerous in bolt or other single-fire rifles, because you might be opening the chamber as the round fires, then the brass will fail or the round will blow gas back into your face.
A round that doesn’t ignite at all is a “dud.”
A round that pushes the bullet partways down the barrel, where the bullet then remains until pushed out, is a “squib.”
Get the Marine Corps TM on the M16:
TM 05538C-23
Also, look in Brownells or Midway USA on civilian books on the topic. The military TM’s are the definitive references aside from the Armalite specs and engineering notes.
The thing about SHTF situations is that most people won’t have the tooling necessary to really do much other than the basics of AR repair. People would need an AR/M-16 multi-tool wrench (I like the USMC version the best), a 1/2” drive torque wrench, some headspace gages, a barrel straightness gage, a set of roll pin punches, replacement roll pins, detents, detent springs, etc for spares.
Given the uncertainty of terminogy used, I suspect that this wasn’t a bullet stuck in the barrel, but a FTE, and the range oifficer tapped out the stuck brass with a rod inserted at the muzzle. If it had been a stuck bullet, it would have been tapped out from the breech, presumably (and any range officer would have expressed alarm and given serious advice I’m not hearing here.)
!Gracias!
You’re probably right...it would be bad to ‘rod’ the barrel in reverse.
I still don’t know what he means by ‘hangfire’...which implies it didn’t go off. If its a failure to extract, that narrows things down.
Bottom line, not alot of specifics to do an internet diagnosis on.
Lubricate it. Then lubricate it some more. For the first several hundred rounds lube should be literally dripping from the action.
OMG. So, I'm scrolling down the Latest Posts page and i see your comment before reading the thread title...
Good gosh. You people know more about this stuff than i could learn in a lifetime. If there’s a ping list for these kinds of how-to threads, please put me on it.
I believe most AK variants have this same design flaw. I lost my VEPR .308 in an unfortunate boating accident on the St. Johns just the other day.
I have that one. Duncan Long’s Complete AR-15/M16 Sourcebook too.
Good stuff.
Thanks. Someone else recommended the MArine handbook, which (from what I read online) looks exactly like the Army Handbook, less the cartoon with the chick in it.
Thanks all for the advice. The rifle is on it’s way back to DPMS for them to check out.
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