They could tackle my raggedy 68 Willys jalopy Jeep wonky elelctrical system. Most of the rest I can handle.
Right now I have an ignition problem that is stumping me probably because it is so simple I’m sure. I’m forgetting or overlooking something.
I’ve put on a new coil, new distributor (electronic), cap, wires, and a second ignition module. The plugs were replaced a couple years back when it was a sort of active project. I’ve pulled the plugs and they look pristine. Plus pulling #1 plug to rework timing.
I’ve got power on both sides of the coil and inside the module on the two wires connecting to the coil. There are two other wires on both modules that have never lit up with a test lamp.
The most I have gotten is a brief sputter. I haven’t fooled with it much lately due to work and the heat.
The only thing that concerns me with the aftermarket distributor, an Omix-Ada is that is keyed to fit one way. The old worn out distributor wasn’t. Assuming the old engine wasn’t in time to begin with, I am hoping this isn’t part of the problem.
After a pull start when it was found a few years ago, it did run but really rough.
Find an old MGB/TR3/Jag/Austin and rip out the Lucas Electrical System, and install it. Runs like a charm. LOL! (Seriously, I wish I could help, but that electrical stuff’s above my pay-grade...)
Have you checked the grounds?
In my experience, it’s the most overlooked item when troubleshooting electrical problems. Everybody goes over the hot and forgets the ground is equally important.
A common problem on both sides are connections that are intact enough to test out with a meter, but don’t have the capacity to actually carry enough current to do the job - like hidden corrosion inside connectors or under them. Most of the grounds don’t get moved around like the hots, so problems don’t show up as easily.
Make sure your Willys still has a good ground strap to the frame
Some thoughts:
1. You might want to look for something called a resistor block- on some older models the ignition system ran through one on the firewall, and if they went to the bad, they would let it turn over but not run.
2. Check the ignition switch. Sometimes the barrel part (the one with the key) wears and causes a problem.
3. This is elementary but as you said it might be something simple. Make sure your number 1 cylinder is TDC (turn it with a wrench) and then check your rotor button to make sure it is pointing the correct way. (I don’t know which way that would be in yours- check a manual).
Good luck with your project- it looks like you have some work ahead of you!