Posted on 09/06/2023 12:04:52 PM PDT by girlangler
To add credence to your judgement, the one picture I can see shows iconic German engraving.
I wish we could see the proofmarks, but I don’t think they should break down the gun.
I used to be able to read A-5 barrels like a newspaper.
RE pics at 8, scroll down. Fooled me too at first.
Intelligent people do not use facebook.
The barrel mark with stag says in German “ARMIE STAHL”
The mark is on each barrel side by side.
Translates: Army Steel
for what that is worth in ID’ing the piece. The rabbit ears are much older than the 1899 Remington style hammers.
The hammers look to hammer the metal bib (spring loaded- and sends a pin into a center fire cartridge shotgun shell of that era?)
“ARMIE STAHL” on banner surrounding the stag. one of these marks on each barrel across from each other.
Army Steel German.
Based upon what others have said and the one picture I can see, I am guessing that it is a German guild gun of medium grade that was made to use black powder. If it is in shootable condition and not too beat up (the one picture I can see, shows a small chip in the stock), I am guessing it is worth about $500-$1000. Why the wide variation? Because there are few people that collect German Guild guns and a small defect can greatly affect price.
I bought my first guild gun about 20 years ago for about $700. It is of very high quality-high figure in the stock, fully engraved with gold bands around the barrels and (from the proof marks) was made in the late 19th century. It had sat at the gunshop for several months. However, a few months after I bought it, the owner of the gunshop told me that since I had bought it three people had come in to buy it.
Drillings are iconic German guns. My other guild gun is a drilling. Mine is an extremely high quality hammerless gun (high figure stock with checkering and carving, fully engraved with gold bands around the barrel) in average condition. It is 16 gauge (the Germans love the 16 gauge) with a 9.3x74R underneath (a very old caliber that only one ammunition company still makes.). It was Nitro proofed (it can shoot modern loads). But it had mechanical issues.
I paid $1300 for it and paid a gunsmith $1200 dollars (over twenty hours in labor) to fix it (new reset spring for the rifle barrel and a new firing pin (The gunsmith had to make both because you cannot get parts for it.)). If I had to value it now, after it was fixed, I would put the price around $1800. Yeah, I know I have too much in the gun, but I had no idea on what it would cost to fix it.
I don’t think it’s a drilling.
Roger. Thanks.
Splinter forearm sits too close to the barrels. I found a really nice drilling once, but 9.3x74? Couldn’t deal with another weird caliber.
Thank you. It worked. Yes, it is a shotgun: no rifle rear sight nor barrel selector (to select whether to fire the shotgun barrels or the rifle barrel). Some drillings, like mine, have a mechanism on the side that looks kind of like safety and a switch on the top that looks like a modern shotgun safety. The side mechanism is a half moon from three o clock to nine o clock. If the button is in the 3 o clock position, the shotgun portion is on safe. To fire the rifle barrel, you have to have have the shotgun mechanism on safe (three o clock) and then push the top tang up; which simultaneously raises the rear site and unlocks the rifle portion of the weapon. The front trigger for the right shotgun barrel also fires the rifle barrel. My gunsmith was absolutely fascinated with how the mechanism worked.
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