Posted on 11/14/2019 8:50:20 AM PST by w1n1
Question for FReepers.
If I should desire to build either one, where is the best place for gaining information on how to do it?
Yeah, I could do web search but, FReepers know the important things.
Tons of videos on youtube. Midway USA has videos also.
UNDERSTOOD. = About that same era, I bought a CANADIAN “inch pattern” C-1 “parts kit & a receiver for just over 300 bucks but sold it to buy yet another Remington Rolling Block Rifled-Musket in MINT condition.
(I’m “addicted to” the 19th Century RM in various calibers. with my “pet” being an 1867 “Danish National Arsenal” RRB clone in “as issued” condition, with saber-bayonet & all “the goodies”.= It was “updated” to the Model of 1896 “Naval & Coast Artillery” configuration in 1897.)
Yours, TMN78247
I’ll go for the AR-10. Nothing is more enjoyable to shoot than an 30 caliber rifle. There is no substitute for the manly feeling you get shooting a rifle of that power. Both are much better than a pistol. And, I shoot much better with my AR-10 than I do with my M1A. And it’s easier to field strip and clean. Both are great rifles though.
I have one AR and honestly haven’t shot it. It sits in the safe with my AK. I do like the old SKS commie battle rifles and I keep one loaded but not chambered in my front closet for emergencies.
That being said I do love my G3 with wood furniture, it is a fine shooting rifle. I also enjoy the ping of that 8th round on an M1 garand. If I want to shoot something lightweight and without a heavy recoil I usually pick up my old Inland M1 Carbine and if I want a round for defense will go with a 110 grain lead hollow point in the carbine.
Try a FN Scar 17. My favorite rifle by far. I took up loading my own 308 rounds just because I spend so much time shooting that Scar on the range.
Heh. I DO live on Lake Lanier, which is QUITE deep in places, and bottom is littered with trees etc.
Get an AR15 for threats out to 300 yards.
Get a bolt gun in 308Win for targets beyond 300 yards.
Well said....right tool for the right job
Last april I took down a feral hog (sow) at 600 yards with a semi-auto SCAR-17. No spotter, no range finder. Just a 6 power scope with an ACSS reticle relying on holdover sighting. Damn, those were some good spare ribs.
A 6x power is great for this platform. Too often shooters choose an optic with too much magnification.
I have a Vortex Strike Eagle with 1-6x variable with a BCD reticle (19" ref element) for automatic range finding and hold.
A 3-9x with MIL-DOT reticle works well in the field out to 800 yards.
Yeah, but I need a range finder with a mil-dot reticle. The ACSS built in range markings works very well out to at least 600 years just using holdover. No need to work the knobs.
While I used a Primary arms 6x ACSS scope, I have two Vortex scopes, one mil-dot and one BDC and both are excellent optics. I would recommend them to anyone. I am just not a good enough shooter to use them at range without a range finder. I’m not very good at adjusting the knobs.
The all-in-one reticle is really great. But beyond 600 with varing windage requires something more. The christmas tree reticle is best, but a simple MDOT can function almost as effectivley, if the shooter can manage holdovers and windage hold modifications.
I understand. That works for me. There is no substitute for success.
That’s my problem. I can’t adjust for windage very well because I don’t know how to work the knobs for that - I’m purely a holdover guy. I’ve never been trained for it. 6 to 800 yards is my limit on my best day. But I’m working on it.
Kind of depends on what you mean by "best". There's a shooting range near me, that offers classes: pay an up-front fee, and a professional gunsmith takes you through an AR15 build, step by step, and you walk out of class with a rifle that you built yourself. That might be the "most professional" approach. If you can't afford that, you can spend time on the internet, and pick up the info you need, as well as purchase your parts & tools. That may be the "most affordable" approach. If you know someone who's an experienced 'builder', getting together with them to select your parts and assemble your rifle may be the "best-of-both-worlds". Which ever approach you choose, building an AR-15 will probably be simpler & less confusing than building a AR-308 or AR-10: there is a lot more standardization in AR-15 parts than .308 parts, so you're less likely to run into compatibility issues (i.e., build an unsafe firearm, or waste money on parts that don't fit).
If you have an interest in firearms, it's definitely worth doing!
;^)
I tell that to my son all the time just as my father told me. He also said to get at least one firearm that used the ammo that the attacking force uses because they will have more ammo to scavenge if things get really bad.
Btw, one of the things that I like about the CETME-C & the G3 is that (at least around here) the gun-shows are FULL of CETME mags for 5-6 bucks each.
The CETME-C mags fit the G3 just fine & 5 bucks each is CHEAP for 20-30 round mags, for sure.
(The gun-show vendor gave me a FREE German-made canvas/leather G3 magazine carrier with my purchase of 10 CETME mags.)
Note: Once I got the “gunk” off of it, I was PLEASANTLY surprised to see a DOWNRIGHT PURTY wood buttstock & fore-end/handguard, “with more stripes than the average tiger”.
I’m planning to finish the metal parts with “semi-gloss” BLACK APPLIANCE PAINT (from Lowes/HD) which (once fully cured in 36-48 hours) cannot be easily removed with sandpaper/elbow grease. = Epoxy Appliance Paint is the TOUGHEST FINISH for a “working gun”, that I’ve yet found & it’s NOT affected by saltwater immersion, which is sometimes “a problem” when “out on the salt”.
(A can of the paint will refinish 2 carbines OR a rifle/carbine & 2-3 pistols for 15.oo, which is pretty cheap for refinishing firearms.)
Yours, TMN78247
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