Posted on 05/09/2017 6:32:12 PM PDT by SamAdams76
Well hell, how many surf boards do you have to buy before you're "into it" ?
I rented a surf board once, in Ocean City, NJ, when I was just a kid in the sixties. I got up once in 3 to 4 foot waves, and got cursed out by some guy for cutting him off. End of career.
Hang loose! I’ve surfed about 130 spots or so, and Malibu still stands out as the best wave of them all. It’s not necessarily the best place in the world for a beach bum given the cost of living around there, but if you can make it work, good for you!
I have farted around at the beach and had a good time but have never been a proficient surfer. In my view it is a lot of work for not a lot of thrill, and living in the Northwest... ocean water is cold even in the summer. The advantage is the waters are not crowded. I tried surfing once in Hawaii but even though the water was warm... every where we went there were tons of other people.
I have barely spent a thousand dollars on surfing stuff in the last 40 years. My other “hobbies” have cost tens of thousands of dollars and a significant amount of time. There is a major difference in both commitment and investment. That would be my definition of when you are into something.
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