Posted on 03/20/2017 9:07:15 AM PDT by Paul R.
Advice needed: It's either corrosion or a gorilla with a wrench, or both, but I cannot get the brake caliper bolts on our Ford Explorer out. FoMoCo exacerbates the problem by using bolts with shallow heads, so it is difficult to keep a socket on them. I have tried various penetrating oils such as PB Blaster, smacking the bolt heads with a medium hammer, etc. to no effect. More info. in my 1st comment...
“out back in,” = put back in (I’m not dyslexic, just my figners are)
At Home Depot in the corner they have affordable steel piping about 5 feet long of the diameter that you can fit over the end of your ratchet handle.
it’s 5 feet long so probably will give you the leverage you need.
$8
Note: I used the wrong terminology - these are “caliper pins” that I can’t get out...
Remember if you use heat it doesn’t have to be
red hot, just enough to cause expansion.
I dont think you are using that tool correctly.
Kroil. The stuff works where no other penetrant will.
Drill it out, the heat and vibration from the drill will often break it loose
Those are always overtorqued in the field. They do not have to be gorilla tight, they are locating pins, not attach bolts.
There is another tool that will work, but I have never seen them other than in an aviation maintenance shop. It is called a screw knocker, and fits on a rivet gun or air impact hammer. The proper size bit or socket goes on the end, and it is turned with an open end wrench while hammering on the stuck fastener. It works where nothing else will.
Something that has worked for me in the past is to put a long closed-end (six-sided is better than 12) wrench (not socket) on it, and smack the free end of the wrench a few times with a hammer (poor man’s impact wrench).
Hacksaw, if there’s room between the caliper and its mount, cut off the bolts, drill them out, replace with helicoils if necessary.
If none of the other options has worked.
Also, use LOTS of high-temp antiseize compound (I use nickel-bearing for my suppressors and other places).
Keep us posted.
Norm
Here’s the link to my earlier thread concerning frozen machine screws:
http://www.freerepublic.com/focus/f-chat/3534175/posts
Over 200 replies, and tons of gearhead knowledge.
Time for new Calipers - just remove old and install new. You are paying now for your lack of proper maintenance in the past.
To help a socket stay on a bolt head modify a 6 point socket by grinding it shorter which which will remove the chamfer and increase the grip.
Never heard of that but it makes sense and should allow the wd40/whiskey to soak in good
I second the suggestion on Kroil. It is by far the best penetrating oil that I have used. Give it a little time to work then heat the caliper and then spray the bolt with something with something that evaporates quickly that will cool it. It is literally probably a crime to suggest it these days, but I made a fitting to spray from little automotive Freon cans. Use an impact wrench before the temperature between the bolt and the caliper get a chance to even out.
with the Freon I spray it with the can upside down so it is liquid when it hits the bolt. You need to wear gloves because it will cause frostbite burns if the liquid comes into contact with your skin.
Use the socket to break the head off. Once you get the caliper off the car (disconnected from the brake line and everything), you will have a 1/4” tall stud to beat on, put in a vise, whatever it takes.
Try heating with a hair dryer. For some reason they get really sticky.
Add a couple more ingredients and you've got Ed's Red Bore Cleaner
and the Caliper pistons and Cups are old and will soon leak ruining all the other work you are doing. Do your BRAKES right - too much at risk to do a 1/2 way job.
Disclaimer: Opinions posted on Free Republic are those of the individual posters and do not necessarily represent the opinion of Free Republic or its management. All materials posted herein are protected by copyright law and the exemption for fair use of copyrighted works.